79 Re: Routers/Cutters
Description
This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 4, by multiple authors.
79 Re: Routers/Cutters
From: stuart@speedy.cs.wisc.edu (Stuart Friedberg)
Date: 6 Oct 88 19:37:52 GMT
The only reason I can think why someone would recommend a plunge router
to make raised panels is the HP, in this case 3 HP. I would recommend
a heavy duty 1 1/2 HP non-plunge router such as the Porter-Cable 536 or
the Milkwaukee 5660. Both are production duty routers that will take a
1/2 inch shank bit, and 1 1/2 HP should be sufficient if you're not
doing this sort of thing for a living. I should add that I just
ordered a PC536 today, after a month of comparing specs, prices,
available accessories, my needs, and actually playing with every model
I could find at the local dealers. (Note: the PC 690 and PC 536 are
both 1 1/2 HP routers that will take 1/2 inch bit shanks, but the 536
is definitely a beefier unit.)
Second thing is that you will HAVE to put the router in a router table,
or a similar jig, to get anything like acceptable results. You might
be able to do rails and stiles nicely without a table, but I wouldn't
try. You definitely will not be able to do raised panels without
stable support of both router and panel. A router table doesn't have
to be expensive, you can build one yourself out of scraps, and set it
on your bench. I got sort of crazy about mine, but it still cost less
than $50, and that's a free standing table with a 2 1/2 by 4 foot top,
removeable inserts and a double fence (shaper style).
A third thing, that might already be obvious. Your router pretty much
has to take 1/2 inch bit shanks to do raised panels, partly because a
lot of the bigger bits only come with larger shanks, and partly because
it will work a whole lot better, even on fairly light cuts with bits
cutting normal sized patterns. The Makita does, but you have to check
specifically for each router model, because high HP doesn't always mean
a 1/2 inch capacity.
The fourth thing is that really wide raised panel bits (3 to 4 inches
in diameter) should run a much lower speeds that most routers run.
There are now two solutions. You can get a motor control box that
provides full torque at a wide range of speeds for about $50. Look
for an ad in Fine Workworking and the other wood magazines. That's
the route I've gone, but I don't have enough experience yet to report
on it. The other solution is brand-new (I think). Somebody at Byrom
had a brainstorm. They are now offering a set of raised panel bits
that are long and skinny instead of short and very wide. You run the
axis of the bit parallel to the panel, instead of perpendicular to the
panel. This almost certainly requires less power, and allows full
use of high speed cuting, and is DEFINITELY safer. However, nobody I
know has used one yet, so I don't know how well they work. Again,
look for a recent ad.
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