71 Re: routers
Description
This article is from the Woodworking FAQ Collection 4, by multiple authors.
71 Re: routers
From: morreale@scdpyr.ucar.edu (Peter Morreale)
Date: 2 Aug 88 16:06:11 GMT
I've read with some interest the articles concerning which router,and
how much horsepower to consider when purchasing one. I thought I'd
throw my two cents in.
I was a "professional carpenter" for 4 years before I started here at
SCD and during that time I had more than one occasion to use a high quality
router. At that time plunge routers were just becoming popular and
unfortunately I left before we got one, but we had alot of sucess using
both a Black & Decker 1hp and a Rockwell (Porter Cable) 1.25hp.
We worked exclusively with hardwoods and somtimes needed to cut
mortises 2" deep in white oak and the B&D was the router of choice due
to its lower center of gravity than the Rockwell. (yes, it was slow
and I don't reccommend it) we also cut alot of trim using both routers.
I suggest that when looking to purchase a router you watch for the words:
"Develops X Horsepower". That's a dead give-away that the load horsepower
is probably significantly lower. What you should be interested in is
the LOAD horsepower. Load hp is what you'll actually do your routing
with.
It is my suggestion that instead of buying a router with 48 hp (ha)
that you (hobbists, etc) invest in a decent quality router (of 1-1.25hp)
and put you "money" into high quality router bits. In my experience
the power ( or quality, in many instances) **NEVER** and I mean **NEVER**
made up for a dull cutting edge. (Never)
I envy all you people out there in Netland that have the space and time
to do woodworking. We've been in apts for the last three years and
I can't wait to get started playing with wood again.
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