Description
This article is from the Woodworking FAQ
Collection 4, by multiple authors.
59 Re: routers
From: lance@batcomputer.tn.cornell.edu (Norman Lalancette)
Date: 21 Jul 88 12:41:15 GMT
In article <36633@linus.UUCP> rr@linus.UUCP (Robert Rifkin) writes:
>>In article <5277@june.cs.washington.edu> mkm@june.cs.washington.edu (Mark Murray) writes:
>>
>> o Plunge capability
>> What purposes is this used for, would I be likely to need it
>> in the future? Does it have any drawbacks?
> Plunging is really nice for doing mortises. I simply set the maximum
>depth of cut, and then gradually plunge in, taking an approximate 1/2
>inch cut each pass. With a conventional router, you would have to
>continually stop the tool and reset the depth. (However, if you are
>brave, you could affix a long guide to the router and slowly lower
>the router into the wood.)
I disagree. I use Porter Cable's Mortise & tenon Jig with my PC router on
a variety of hardwoods without problem. With one edge of the router base
on the template, you gradually angle the mortising bit into the wood to its
full 3/4" depth and then cut away using the template as a guide. The bit
cuts the full depth all at once - which saves time. I have never had
burning, even with maple. Also, the I've never had a problem entering the
wood.
I have never found the lack of plunge capability a disability. Perhaps if
I did have it, I would find it useful . . . but I have no regrets.
Continue to:
Share and Enjoy
Bookmark this story so others can enjoy it:
Tags
crafts, woodworking, bandsaw, biscuit joiners, dust collect, jointer, miter saw, motors, planer, router, sander, shop heat, toy safety, ammonia, antique tool, hide glue, motors, wood bending, workbench
